Plaits and Buns

Technical #1 with Lottie Davies

For our very first practical lesson on the fundamentals of hair and postiche, Lottie got us to grips with 3 types of buns and plaits on our model head.

Modern Bun



Lottie wanted us to create a 'modern' bun without using a hair doughnut to create the shape we wanted as the final result. To start with, I created a ponytail to gather all the hair together. On this particular head, I tied only half up to make it easier to practice. Then the ponytail needed to be seperated into 4 sections - top, left, right and bottom. As shown above I have gathered the top section and backcombed it slightly to make sure it keeps it shape when it is rolled in the next step. I then pinned it and repeated this technique 3 more times (the result is shown on the left). Using these 4 sections, we used fine waved pins to tease the backcombed areas and pull them across to meet the sections next to them. Once the gaps become closed between the sections, I secured them with the pin to keep the sections all together. The images below show my first attempt at the Modern Bun. I feel this was a successful first attempt as the bun has a nice rounded shape and the hair remains looking sleek and neat. However, unfortunately the hair on the model head is quite thin and therefore the bun is quite seethrough and not as thick as I would have desired.



Wrap Around Bun

For this bun, we had to start with a ponytail again and simply twist the hair and tie it around the hair tie. This created a rough bun on the top of the head. To neaten the look, I pulled bits of hair towards the scalp with a hair pin. This meant the bun looked fuller and less roughly put together. With this particular style I feel it is very easy to put together and will be a useful skill to develop, an easy one to replicate and incorporate within other hair styles. 

Plaited Bun

Again with this bun I started with a ponytail but this time I used it to create a simple 3 strand plait. Then twisted this plait around, much like the wrap around bun, to get the desired look. I found it difficult with this model to make a long enough plait to make the bun big enough and look effective. My final result was quite messy and I think on longer and thicker hair it would have a better outcome. 

Plait
To begin learning about the various types of plaits, we began by practising and demonstrating the basic plait.                                                                                                                   French Plait  Lottie then taught us how to perfect a French plait.                                                                                                                                            Fishtail Plait 
The final plait that was taught to us in this lesson was a fishtail plait. I have taught myself this before but Lottie advised that the best way was to use small section from each side to make it the most effective. Also, to not make the tension too high or you will not be able to loosen the plait to make it messier and softer.    

I wanted to try and attempt the variations of the plait using all the models hair. My first attempts are quite messy and I wasn't sure what were the best techniques to aid creating a polished French Plait and Fishtail Plait. The image on the left demonstrates my attempt in the classroom. Afterwards, Lottie advised me with the French Plait to include parts of the hair from the middle and then the outside of the head to make sure the tension is high and there will be no gaps between each section of hair. Below our my 2nd attempts of plaiting the whole head and I feel these are much more effective and professional following Lottie's advise.           


                                                                                                  

Historic and Contemporary Elizabethan Comparisons


Historic

  • Colour: ginger/auburn/strawberry-blonde. The portraits show variations of red hair demonstrating the trade of the colour but also the importance and popularity of wigs.
  • Texture: structured/curly/set. It seems as those the hairstyles were similar in the way they are held and styled as the curls remain sleek and shaped purposely to reflect Queen Elizabeth's iconic look.
  • Shape: tight curls/updo's/rounded/tall. All the women have very high hair-lines following the trend of plucking the front hairs to create a bigger forehead. Most of the imagery visualises the trend of tight ringlets taken up in a either a heart shaped up-do or a rounded style. The hair almost becomes crown-like and symmetrical. 
  • Decoration: jewels/pearls/crowns. The jewellery is used to show the decadence of the era and reflect royalty.



Modern
  • Colour: red/vibrant/orange. These women model an enhanced style influenced by the Elizabethans as their hair is an amplified red. As opposed to the historic images, the hair is more vibrant. 
  • Texture: volume/fluffy/layered. Instead of tight, ringlet curlys the hairstyles demonstrated above are brushed out curls - making it volumized and intensely layered. The catwalk look incorporates the heart-shaped trend from the Elizabethan era through backcombing.
  • Shape: large/wavy/loosely styled. The shapes within Modern Elizabethan styles are much less styled and are more free and messy.
  • Decorations: barely any. Either the face will be decorated or a headpiece may be incorporated within the hairstyle.

Introduction to Elizabethan Hair

The first thing I think of with the word 'Elizabethan' is red hair. All portraiture and modern interpretations have a variation of the red colour in their hairstyles. This stems from Queen Elizabeth's iconic royal updo's. 'By 1550 the fashion of frizzing the hair had arrived from France. This was done in a similar way to modern backcombing, the hair then being brushed over pads and wires frames to hold out the style on the temples' (Keyes, 1967, pg 7). A trend Queen Elizabeth also started was the use of wigs. It is suggested by historians she is known to have more than 80 wigs throughout her reign. These popular wigs that would be re-created following Elizabeth were mostly made up of curls or frizzy hair. They were built up into a variety of shapes, usually symmetrical or heart-shaped with the peak in the centre of the forehead. (Keyes, 1967, pg 11). The photo from the book 'A History of Women's Hairstyles 1500-1965' demonstrates the evolution of the heart-shaped updo's. As well as the common tight and frizzy curls, bonnet size hats became a massive part of the style. They add various shapes and textures into the look. 

In the Elizabethan Era, men's style was also transformed. The Elizabethan man 'was more inclined to 'feminine ways' due to the atmosphere of court life which was orientated to the whims and desires of a woman' (Gunn, 1973, pgs 70-88) following Elizabeth I's reign. Masculine hair trends for the English man became moderately long and curled with groomed and pointed beards and moustaches. Men also had their own ways, like wigs, to keep their hairs in place - gum! 

The updos, textures and colours throughout Elizabethan hairstyles will be a great place to start with my personal evolution to create my own 'Modern Elizabethan' hair style. 

Book used for reference:
Jean Keyes, 1967, A History of Women's Hairstyles 1500-1965, London, Methuen & Co

Fenja Gunn. 1973. The Artifical Face, A History of Cosmetics. Published by David & Charles (London). Chapter: Late Fifteeth and Sixteeth Centuries

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